New York Fashion Week S/S 2012 Day 3
Published Sep 11, 2011
Fresh faced, natural beauty was the look backstage today, with one bright lip thrown in for good measure. Beautylish's Tara goes backstage to get all the info you need to know.
The collection at Ruffian was super sporty this morning, which translated directly into hair and makeup. The look was a jockey girl, and makeup artist James Kalliardos (for MAC) created a version of a prim Upper East sider (think Blair Waldorf in Gossip Girl) with all the emphasis on the eyes. A slick cat eye that was more an extension of a lash was topped with an extra set of eyelashes (MAC 21 to be exact) and lashes were coated with two thick layers of mascara.
The rest of the face was bare, with an angular application of MAC's bright peachy blush. "The peach keeps it younger," said James. To finish off the look of a city girl heading out for a ride, lips were natural with only a coat of moisturizer.
For hair, a chunky plait completed the jockey look. Hair was sprayed with Oribe Prep and Thickening Hair Spray and pulled tightly off the face into a ponytail, which was then backcombed to create volume. For all those girls wanting to try a sophisticated plait, this is the look for you! The backcombing ensures that your plait doesn't look limp on your head!!
Nails echoed the graphic prints in the collection and each hand was painted a different color. The team from OPI then painted contrasting lines across the base color.
Helmut Lang's classic lines, minimalist cuts, and stark colors were evident in hair and makeup this season, with makeup taking inspiration from the military and urban styles. Heavy brows were the focus of the face, styled to be heavy, bushy, and aggressive—don't think of pretty arched eyebrows here. The rest of the face was left clean and simple, and lips were coated in a nude pinky lipstick (VIP by Temptu to be exact).
Hair was inspired by the punky edginess of '90s Helmut Lang, and was styled to look like a girl who had been rocking away at a concert all night and left at 2am with sweaty, messy hair. Locks were coated in Catwalk for Tigi's Sea Salt Spray until they looked almost wet, and then pulled back into a loose ponytail. The hair was then split into two and tied in a knot, twice, and smushed against the head.
Prabal Gurung was a riot of color this morning, and the makeup exemplified it. Bright pops of purple and plenty of stunning graphic botanical prints in dark purple and violet were splashed across silk dresses and drippy tops, with rich whites mixed in for good measure. To tie in with Prabal's gorgeous palette, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury wanted to create the look of a strong, seductive woman who knew what she wanted. The face was kept dewy and fresh with MAC Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation, MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna, MAC Studio Moisture Cream, and eyes were covered in a light silver shadow. Everything was luminous, in order to show off the lips, which were the most stunning part of the face. Charlotte applied MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in Process Magenta with a blunted tip to achieve the look of just-kissed lips. She then mixed MAC Lipmix in Pro Black, Burgundy, and Fuchisa in the center of the lip, which spread outwards to represent an orchid blooming between the models' lips.
Hair was slicked back and blow-dried straight to keep the focus on the face, and nails echoed the rich purples seen in the clothes.
A coat of Sally Hansen's lilac was applied first, then a coat of sparkly deep purple (called Love Me Not) was applied on top, leaving a mini crescent of pastel at the base of the nail. According to manicurist Jin Soon, it was one of her favorite looks so far this week.
more products used:
M·A·C Pro Sculpt Sculpting Powder Pro Pallette
MAC Eye Shadow in Young Venus In Extra Dimension and Warm Thunder In Extra Dimension available spring/summer 2012)
Pretty, ladylike and feminine were the key words backstage at Adam, and each component of the look was just that. A fresh, natural, and healthy face shone with tinted MAC's frost cream blush on the cheeks, and a soft nude lip. Makeup artist Romy was inspired by a surfy, natural '70s meets '40s look, which directly translated to hair.
Hairstylist Odile Gilbert kept it simple with soft waves and two pieces pulled back for an almost hippie-chic look, which was still ladylike and refined.
For nails, Deborah Lippmann herself talked me through the color (and mentioned that her favorite shade right now is Stormy Weather, a color she made with Narciso Rodriguez). A soft creamy white went on nails first, with a top coat of creamy luminescent sparkles. Layers of nail polish have proven to be a huge trend over the past three days, and we can't wait to see more!
Soft pastels and pretty colors based on the coral reef were splashed across clothes at Christian Siriano. Flirty skirts, sleeveless dress shirts and lots of subtle ruffles were major factors of the collection. A soft yellow or orange eye shadow was used on the face to mimic the prettiness of the clothes, and makeup artist Polly Osmond put three dabs of color underneath the eye to keep it fresh and pretty. "It's all about the technique," said Polly, "apply the cream shadow with your fingers in an almost blotchy way." The look was inspired by a traveler, the kind of girl that gets out of bed and splotches some color on her face then takes off for an adventure.
Hair followed suit. Long, tousled waves were created with Aveda mousse and a curling iron. The trick to keeping it natural, we learned, was to curl sporadic pieces of hair rather than everything, which keeps the style from looking too prim and proper. “The hair for Christian Siriano this season is playful and looks effortless," said Aveda lead stylist Antoinette Beenders. We’ve updated the loose, beachy waves of the ’90s with a more groomed look that’s smart, young and approachable.”
The look at Charlotte Ronson was inspired directly by the designer herself, and the makeup used was Charlotte's line with Sephora. Inspired by a natural, grungy Beauty who had just rolled out of bed, makeup was very fresh faced and looked as if it hardly been applied. A light concealer around the eyes and highlighter on the cheeks was used to make the models look a little dewier. The trick is, to make yourself look dewy, not shiny. The best way to achieve it is to mix your foundation with moisturizer or the makeup artists favorite, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. A little black eye liner was used to highlight the eyes, but nothing too dramatic.
Hair was pulled back into a loose ponytail at the nape of the neck, with little pieces left to fall out at the front. To get the textured messy look, Tresemmé Dry Shampoo was the star product.
Monique Lhuillier took a break this season from the stunning fairytale evening gowns and cocktail dresses she is so well known for, and took her collection in a sporty, athletic direction. Designed to compliment the clothes and continue the sporty, almost Olympic theme, the focus was placed on dramatic eyes. Makeup artist Val Garland painted a bright cobalt blue (MAC Chromacake in Marine Ultra) line over black across the top of the eye lid, pulled out the blue to create a wing, and then drew the line back towards the socket of the eye. "I call it a swoosh line like the Nike tick," said Val. A rich MAC cream eye shadow was used with a slanted brush, as precision and a steady hand were key. The rest of the face was simple and natural with bare lips, dewy, highlighted cheeks, defined and elongated, "aerodynamic" brows, and no mascara.
The hair continued the sporty, athletic theme. First, hairstylist Odile Gilbert prepped dry hair with Kérastase Fibre Architect (a new product that's out in October) and then flat-ironed it. "This product gives you a treatment and is smoothing. It makes the hair look healthy and shiny," said Odile, who then pulled back the hair very tightly into a ponytail (the trick is to run your brush along your scalp) and then teased at the base of the ponytail to make it look full, like a horse's tail. "There are a lot of cocktail and evening dresses in this collection so it's nice to be able to see the shoulders and neck," said Odile. Think a big sprouty ponytail that ends sharply.
For nails, CND gave fingers a creamy white, soy milk manicure using two coats of CND Colour in Creme Washed color topped with CND Super Shiney Top Coat. Pedicures were done in a stunning, dark metallic navy by custom blending CND Colour in Raspberry Plunge, Silver, and Inkwell. "Monique usually goes with a strong gem-tone on the nails. This is a clean, sporty look that's new for her," said CND's Jan Arnold.
_more products used: _
"We're doing a subtle, monochromatic mannequin face, but healthy looking, with a little shading on the eye with Cle de Peau Eye Color Quad in 208" (out March 2012), said makeup artist Lucia Peroni. "Gorgeous skin was the main objective. The skin was highlighted with Cle de Peau Luminizing Face Enhancer in Gold (out March 2012). Using a brush, hit the cheekbones, forehead, down the nose and on top of the cupid's bow. We left skin nude and mannequin like. We're doing a nude matte lip and the face is quite shiny with highlights on the skin and collarbones. It's only matte on the lip because the matte gives the look a little bit of edge."
"It's a very wet look but without using water," said Bob Recine. "We're using Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse to give strength and a diamond reflection. Then we're holding the hair in place with hairsprays. We're using the softer Phytolacque Soie hairspray to sculpt the hair. [Spraying on comb and coming hair back]. The harder Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray freezes the front and sides and makes them really stay when the models walk down the runway. The clothes show so much skin that we wanted to give the girls a fresh out of the shower look."
"We're doing a coat of Nail Foundation Flawless Base coat," said founder of Butter London Nails, Noni Creme. "It gives a good foundation to paint on and is stain-proof. Then we're applying two coats of Tea With The Queen, a beige nude. The clothing is lingerie-inspired, so it's overtly sexual, but empowering, not crass. To stay true to the nude feeling, we wanted a naked nail. If you wear colored polish, you're dressed. A colorful manicure would make these girls overdressed. I don't want to see sheer nude. Whatever color you're wearing, make it opaque. We're doing nude nails here, but the overview trend for spring is major color. There's a plethora of neon—straps, belts. I don't want to do a matchy nail. That feels too costumey. So I took the neons and added a dose of pure white pigment. It turns it into a demi-neon. A neon sherbert like pistachio. We've been in greige and beige for a billion seasons now. People want to buy color!"