In the mad rush to New York Fashion Week, how does a mega-master of the art of hairstyling arrive at his concept for one of the season’s most anticipated runway shows? That’s the question posed to the legendary Garren of Garren New York Salon backstage at the Anna Sui show on Feb 16. Garren replied, “We wanted to capture a moment in the ‘60s, exploring the question, ’How did Mod get to Baroque?' There was this Edwardian crossover, with romantic velvets and feathers. We were also inspired by gorgeous costumes from the Ballet Russe.”
Keep reading for Rene Furterer hair how-tos and product recommendations from the Anna Sui Fall 2011 Collection!
Anna was going very Art Deco with the fabric, and referencing that cool ‘60s English schoolgirl girl look. Moving in that direction, the hair has a ’60s rock feel: The Beatles meet The Rolling Stones. The long looks are blown-out and piecey with volume for lift at the roots and substance. It’s a rippled, slept-in look, but not bed-head. It’s more polished. The short looks are very edgy, little boy cuts. Overall, the look expresses all the glamour and cool of a Mod Moment in a Modern World." Here, we show you the inspired creative process from backstage to catwalk.
Two '60s “sex kittens,” Brigitte Bardot and Julie Christie in the groundbreaking film “Darling,” were the inspiration behind long, swingy looks with extra height at the crown.
First, since many of the models were arriving straight from other shows with product in their hair, hair was lightly misted with water before their blow-outs to prep hair for styling. In case models had a lot of product build-up in their hair, Rene Furterer Naturia Dry Shampoo was at every hairstylist’s station to cleanse and refresh hair instantly.
For models with wavy hair, Rene Furterer Acanthe Curl Enhancing Leave-in Fluid was applied instead of Volumea, but it was kept an inch-and-a-half away from roots to maximize lift at the crown. Both products delivered volume with movement. “I wanted the hair to float,” says Garren.
Each model was styled according to hair texture, length and face shape. Which meant deep side parts for some, classic '60s middle parts for others. And because eyebrow-grazing bangs were a quintessential Mod look--think Marianne Faithfull--some girls were given silky spills of faux fringe. Hair was parted in the center, and two skinny sections were secured with tiny anchors. Next, clip-on bangs were clipped into place and artfully trimmed to look perfectly natural.
To create the “kitten bump,” two sections of hair at the crown were rolled into jumbo rollers. Once rollers were removed, sections were lightly back-combed. The finishing touch: Rene Furterer Vegetal Finishing Spray for light control.
For full-on volume, Rene Furterer Volumea Volumizing Conditioning Spray was spritzed on hair and massaged into roots before blow-drying. “The Volumea spray creates the foundation for the style and provides hold,” says Garren.
Admiring one model’s cropped little boy haircut, Garren said that when it comes to daring to go short, “You gotta live it and love it!” Here’s how Garren gave a boyish cut a fashion-forward edge.
To style a sleek, side-parted cut, hair was separated in small sections with a comb and flat-ironed to give it a light-reflective sleekness.
“For a smooth finish that adds movement and texture, I like Rene Furterer Styling Wax,” says Garren. “Unlike many pomades that leave the hair looking dead, the Styling Wax isn’t greasy.” Garren took a dab, rubbed it between the palms of his hands and lightly stroked the surface of the hair, turning a simple short cut into a provocatively androgynous look, ready for the runway.