If you’ve watched RuPaul’s Drag Race, then you’re already familiar with the term “cooking” in reference to makeup application. For the rest of you who are picturing ovens, pots and pans brimming over with foundation, stick with us.
To “cook” your makeup means to let it sit on the face anywhere from 10-20 minutes so your own body heat melts the makeup into the skin. As the makeup oxidizes, it will change color and texture. The emollient ingredients will absorb into the skin leaving a more pigmented coverage to blend with. This results in a smoother, poreless finish that lasts longer. Our beloved Wayne Goss, makeup artist and video tutor extraordinaire, is a fan of this method, particularly when going for that Kim Kardashian glow.
After your moisturizer/primer/foundation routine, apply your cream concealer in a sideways triangle shape. This will be similar to the Triangle of Light, but you’ll want to bring the tip of the triangle to the outer edge of the face by your ears, and keep it in the cheekbone area rather than bringing it down to the outer corner of the nose. For an extra-highlighted effect, use a concealer a shade or two lighter than your usual.
Now you wait! If you’re in a rush, you can use this time to style your hair, or work on another part of your face (we don’t recommend working with dark shadow during this time though, since fallout can mess up your “cooking”).
After 10-20 minutes (play around to see what timing is right for you and your schedule), blend the area with a dampened blending sponge. Teardrop or round shapes work best for this. You can also use your fingers.
Set with a finishing powder. Wayne Goss recommends a heavy dusting of light powder and then waiting for that to set, or you can just lightly press a velour puff into the concealer and go!
Tip: if your makeup looks too powdery, mist on a setting spray for extra longevity and a dewy finish (we love Mario Badescu’s Facial Spray with rosewater). You can also use this throughout the day to refresh your makeup.