Contouring mistakes, tips and opinions.

Jun 25, 2016

Diana T.

Hey beauties I came across a YouTube video where this girl points out (in her opinion) the biggest contouring mistakes she sees regularly - I'll add the link later but I wanted to get opinions from the BL community on contouring mistakes, tips for having it look good, and overall opinions on contouring in general!

So personally I don't ever really contour - unless I'm know I'm going to be photographed because I feel like contouring helps to define my more rounded (oval) fave shape and when I smile and look straight ahead I feel like I lose my whole bone structure and contouring I think can help that - but even when I do contour I make sure it looks so natural that it's not even really noticeable - because I personally prefer to have a more natural makeup look on a regular basis

Now what I see as contouring mistakes are the same as the ones the girl in the video shares - people contouring their noses way too thin, having such a harsh contour line on their cheek bones, and highlighting way too much under the eyes to wear they just create bags and lines and to me it all looks horrible - rarely do I see a contour job that I actually like unless it's so natural that I can't even tell they did any contouring
Another one of my pet peeves is watching YouTube "gurus" give horrible tips about how to contour - telling people to use bronzers, and make a harsh line in the cheek bones - which may look good and well on camera but in person it just looks awful!
So I'd like to get your opinions on it all and feel free to watch the video here: http://diply.com/crocker/article/contouring-mistakes-you-probably-didnt-know-you-were-making

And let me know what you think about her opinions on contouring mistakes as well
Also any tips for getting a good contour look are appreciated as well!
Thanks beauties!

Jun 25, 2016

Aurora S.

Contouring mistakes... Uhmmm I'd have to say contouring that isn't really for their face shape.
Like,I think some people expect contouring to make their face slimmer and more sculpted but they follow the standard contouring and highlighting, as such I see people with round faces that end up really emphasizing their round face rather than trying to slim or down so it ends up giving the opposite effect IMO.

I think another one would be using a really light cream highlight and a really dark contour cream and then mixing those together with a sponge looks bad most the time due to the color.
I notice their face overall looks quite ashy/grey (unless they use a very orangey shade but it ends up looking quite orange) and it ends up looking really emphasized with flash.

Over highlighting... Well using a shade way too light is done way too much. They end up looking like a floating head most the time.
I prefer either just highlighting(I don't go more than a 1 1/2 shades lighter) or just contouring. Doing both can end up looking a bit too dramatic and kind of washed out

Jun 25, 2016

Kitty K.

What an interesting article! I don't contour a lot, and when I do it's usually my forehead more than anything else.
The only trend that hits a nerve is highlighting!
I've seen people bring their highlighter all the way down to their nose :/ I apply my highlighter just below the orbital bone and it doesn't go all the way down my cheeks.

Jun 25, 2016

Jacqueline H.

In my opinion, highlighting and contouring has gotten way out of hand, and most people who do highlight and contour as a consistent part of their makeup application don't understand the basic principles of shade and light; hence, a complete lack of understanding 'why' they are placing product where they are placing product.

As stated, done well...highlighting and contouring can visually trick the eye into seeing something that is truly only an illusion. You want people to notice your features, not the products you used to try and shape/enhance those features.

When it comes to highlighting and contouring, face shape does matter, and seeing it being thrown to the wayside like that is disturbing to me. I know people like to say that there are no 'rules' when it comes to makeup... That's another debatable subject, however, there are most definitely guidelines, and I grow weary of seeing proper technique thrown out the window by individuals that don't even know what face shape they have. Highlighting and contouring is all about facial proportion and symmetry, not just concentrating on a few features. If one does not take the basic shape of the face into consideration, the results can and usually are disproportionate.

I generally agree with a majority of the 'mistakes' she mentioned in the video. We have all been bombarded with the 'don't use bronzer to contour,' and I generally agree with that; however, whether you realize it or not, most contour powders do have a bit of warmth to them; if they didn't, it would look too overtly ashy on the skin, and that's something you don't want unless it's Halloween Zombie time. A good contour powder or cream will have an overt cool grayish tone to it with a little subtle warmth. That's why in my opinion, Kevyn Aucoin's Sculprting powder is the best and most universally flattering contour on most skin tones.

The biggest mistake I see is bringing the contour product past the edge of your eye and being blended down. The only time you really want to bring the contour past the edge of the eye is with a heart shaped face. Why? Because what you want to do with this particular face shape is cut the angle and pop the cheekbones, and even then... on a heart shaped face, one should start the contour at the sides of the forehead and temples. This is what will create balance between the wider upper half of a heart shaped face and the narrower lower half. Then just hit the area below the cheekbones starting from the ears and stop in the middle of the cheek and blend.

I'm also not fond of seeing people completely change their skin tone by going 4 shades lighter to highlight and 4 shades deeper to contour. On stage? Yes, I can see that. For everyday? Not so much. It just looks weird when the exposed area of your neck is clearly 4 shades deeper than any part of your highlight. Just my opinion. ;)

In conclusion, the photo that the YouTuber posted as being 'Contour on Fleek,' I would agree that the contour work is nice, but that highlighter right above her cheekbone is far to prominent. When you look at a face, what you don't want is the eye of the viewer to be pulled one way or the other by a particular feature, 'or' by product that is placed on a particular feature. When I looked at that photo, that is indeed a beautiful lady, but what is the first thing your eye sees? That bright highlight above her cheekbone. Most highlighting products these days are taken to the extremes of reality in terms of texture and finish, and sometimes people lay down so much highlighter that one cannot see the actual skin. If that highlight was toned down a bit on that upper cheekbone area, I'd give that a 2 thumbs up; but it's truly all about proportion. I don't care for heavy handed highlighting, but I am in the complete minority on that one. ;)

When all is said and done, all that really matters is if 'you' like the reflection that is staring back at you. I do not contour and highlight as part of my makeup application on a regular basis. I'm like Diana, I'll do it if I am being photographed or if I feel fancy for a night on the town. Very interesting topic Diana.  ;)

Jun 25, 2016

Kristen W.

The “highlighting” is what drives me crazy. Most of these girls already wear a full coverage foundation (usually the wrong shade) then they use a concealer that is 3-4 shades lighter than their skin to highlight and THEN they apply a glitter bomb highlight all over their cheeks… It’s just insane. I don’t understand how they can't see how much that changes their face shape and not for the better. I hate to be mean but they look… bloated and aged about 10 years.

A lot of the problem however, comes down to the lighting and cameras youtubers/instagramers use. You can pile on a TON of makeup and depending on your lighting it will look very soft and blended no matter what. But stick most of those girls outside in the sun and you are going to have a very eye opening experience. Cakey foundation, concealer and harsh lines everywhere. I think until most people either try the instagram techniques on themselves or learn about how bad lighting can actually work in your favor sometimes the instagram trends will continue to have the legs they do. Have you ever looked at some of the bigger “gurus” comment sections? They are usually filled with “how come when I do this I don’t look like you??”… Unfortunately, they just haven’t made the connection yet that she doesn’t look like that either. lol

Don’t get me wrong… I love contouring as much as the next girl. I’m a little extra fluffy around the face if you know what I mean. lol I can use all the help I can get but it’s not practical for every day or going to walgreens at 9am. You can get away with a light contour and highlight but what you see on youtube and Instagram is never going to work in natural daylight. It’s not even drag it’s just bad makeup.

Jun 25, 2016

Kristen W.

Sorry for the double post forgot to say...

One thing that I do find odd though is she made this video but then her instagram page is filled with this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BGsgRhdQ4ig/?taken-by=_stephanielange_  

o_O

Jun 25, 2016

Aleena P.

So I'm definitely not a pro. which makes me feel weird commenting on what people should and shouldn't do. but we all know when something just doesn't look right and I'm the type of person to judge either way. lol
personally I contour a few times a week. I like the way it emphasises my cheeks and it brings dimension back to my face when I wear fuller coverage. I have a lot of redness and hyperpigmentation so I opt for at least medium coverage pretty often. (some days I embrace my calico skin though). I don't contour as dramatically on a daily basis as when I am going out or taking pictures of course. normally I'll bronze around my temples to bring in my big forehead and I'll etc. my cheekbones just a bit, not coming past the outer corner of my eye with the color. I don't really aim to thin my face or widen it (except my forehead) I just want a little more emphasis on shadows I already have and enjoy. I'll admit I still haven't settled on what my face shape is, (I bounce between heart and oval, if anyone has a suggestion I'll take it), but I've done a lot of trial and error to find out what I like to do with the face I have.

I may be in the minority in that I'm kind of fond of the overilluminating trend as an editorial look. I like my glowy cheeks but like Jacqueline said too much of it throws off my whole face. so I wouldn't wear it glow-in-the-dark-bright myself. I just think it looks pretty in pictures. I'm with kitty when she said it shouldnt come all the way across the cheeks to the nose though. lol. I don't think it should come past the outside of the iris on most people. And I agree that too light of a highlighter under the eyes just makes you look tired and dry. I don't understand where the emphasis of a really light under eye came from but I wish it would go back there.
I think my biggest issue with other people looks is a lot of what you guys mentioned. when they bring the contour down to the laugh lines or almost touching their lips it just looks like a dirty streak and that bothers me.
I may be wrong here but I've always thought that you should have a matching base shade and add dimension from there. I see a lot of people with a base shade that's way too light and they justify it by adding a really dark contour to the perimeter of the face, but none of it ends up blending to the right color, like aurora mentioned.
I know that some people need a little more warmth in their contour, but someone with my skin tone who uses a very warm, borderline orange, shade to contour will never look right (I'm looking at you Manny"mua") and I just can't help but stare at their cheek because it doesn't look like their cheekbone is coming in it just looks like they have orange makeup on their cheeks. that's probably what irritates me the most is the orange cheek streak that comes down to the lips and has become really popular in YouTube videos.
I LOVE drag queens and their makeup. They use it as a real art form for performance and I find it incredibly intriguing. with that being said I really feel that stage makeup and costume makeup should be intentional. I mean, if someone feels comfortable in it off stage good for them. But they should at least be doing it on purpose. I have unfollowed many a YouTuber for a "natural" tutorial that looks like it was meant for morticia Adams.

Jun 25, 2016

Aleena P.

I used to follow stephanie Lange. I don't mean to sound hateful at all but I don't think she has her YouTube channel because she loves her art. at least not anymore. I think she does what makes her audience happy and that's why she has good points in the video that she contradicts on her own Instagram. that's just my opinion on her and again I don't mean it in a hateful way. but we all know that is a common thing in YouTube land.

Jun 25, 2016

Kristen W.

I've never seen her until this video so I wasn't trying to hate on her either. :) Just thought it was interesting that in most of her pictures on insta she has the "mistakes" that she mentioned in her video. Maybe she just doesn't see the resemblance. :P

And what I meant by the drag makeup comment is I see so many people say in defense of the orange streaks and such "Oh that's just drag makeup that's why you don't like it." It's like C'mon... I don't see Miss Fame walking around looking like Manny. Don't insult the queens. lol

I guess at the end of the day Jackie said it best. As long as you like what you see in the mirror then it doesn't matter what anybody thinks. :)

Jun 25, 2016

Mar F.

I'm a bit torn when it comes to contouring. If we are talking, like Aleena said, about bringing dimension and warmth to the face then I'm all for it!! I usually don't use contouring products for this, I use some bronzing powders that don't have much orange in them (NARS laguna, TF milk chocolate or Vita Liberata's loose autobronzing powder). Sometimes even just different blushes (such as pinks combined with mauves)
That I do daily :)

If we are talking Instagram/Youtube contouring then I don't like it much. Like Jacqueline said, KA sculpt powder is the most natural looking and the only one I own (and I ever will). I do think that heavy contouring, when it's properly done, is appropriate in some specific situations: on stage, heavy lighting, drag, etc. I always try to explain to my clients that todays Ig/YT trends take that completely out of context to where it no longer makes sense. And I don't like things that don't make sense... Like using orangey colors to contour! When looking to create volumes on the face (like on paper) you draw the shadows those volumes would generate, and I don't know how many time I got told in art school that shadows are desaturated colors: shadows are always on the grey/neutral side of the spectrum. Every time I see that I think of my art teacher and cringe a little bit hahaha.

Jun 26, 2016

Diana T.

Wow thanks for all the thoughts and tips - I love reading all your opinions - and I pretty much agree with you all - contouring I feel like has gotten out of hand to the point that I feel like women are purposely trying to look like a drag queen - but I feel like they don't understand that drag queens are not in full drag makeup 24/7 - they understand when they put on that makeup they are trying to change their bone structure to appear more feminine but since we already have that feminine bone structure we really don't need all of that - just subtle contouring to bring out our natural features is more than enough - don't get me wrong I love a good drag queen but there is a place for that type of makeup and it's the stage or on camera - but even then it's not necessary unless you want to change your the look of your natural bone structure - with that said I hope that we all can take away from these tips and opinions and improve on our own contouring applications as well as helping others to improve as well :) thanks again for sharing everyone!

Jun 26, 2016

Marleen B.

I agree that highlighting & contouring has gotten out of control. Everything is too extreme. Contour too dark and drawn too far down & at the wrong angle for the person's particular face shape. Drawing on the triangle of light with so much thick, way too light concealer that makes the person look chalky and ghostly and you can clearly see the demarcation between the concealer and contour. If I can see it watching it on a video then it must be ridiculous in person. I do contour a little under my cheekbones, about an inch and a half from my hairline. I do it for a couple reasons. One I have an aging face so I like to lift my cheekbones , and I don't want to hollow out the lower part of my face because I'm already losing volume there. I notice that after I do my light contouring, the top of my cheekbones already look highlighted. So, I just add a little of the Pat McGrath clear, colorless, balm to add a moist look, because I have really dry skin and like that youthful dewy look on that area. I do contour my nose a little also, but again, after contouring, my nose will automatically look highlighted by contrast so I don't put any highlight on my nose. I use a regular concealer for under my eyes, not the triangle. And if I do the triangle of light I will use the Loreal Lumi pen which has a very thin consistency, thinner than foundation and concealer. It adds a true glowy brightened look because the skin texture is still visible and not flat and matted it out. It still looks like skin. And when I do draw on the triangle, I just drawn the triangle outline but I don't feel it in, because I don't like to use too much product. I don't understand why when girls use stick concealer and they were all on the triangle and they fill it in. Why?, the concealer. Concealer is so thick and it spreads so far it's way too much product. In summary, I think contouring and highlighting is great but like everything great thing it has been abused. Too much product , too light, too dark and covering way too much of the face. The way I see it being done lately, they don't even to wear foundation because the concealer and contour take up 95% of the face. Is there any part of the face that doesn't have either highlight (concealer) or contour on it?

Jun 26, 2016

Marleen B.

Sorry about the crazy grammar, I tried using my microphone instead of typing.

Jun 26, 2016

Jacqueline H.

Aleena: Looking at photos isn't always the best and most accurate way to determine face shape. People tend to photograph themselves at different angles, and that can effect the shape we think we see. In addition, how the hair actually rests on the face can also effect the shape that we think see. If you want to know for sure, you can measure.

Here's a really cool web site that tells you how to measure, and what your measurements mean in relation to your face shape. :)  

http://www.felixandiris.com/face-shape-guide.html

Jun 26, 2016

Alexis C.

I used to do the full highlight and contour because I thought that was what I was supposed to be doing. Slowly but surely I cut down on where I contour and highlight and now I'm happy with what I'm doing. I do use a lighter concealer to highlight but I only use one shade lighter and I apply a light layer under my eyes in a triangle, down the nose, and the Cupid's bow. I only contour my cheekbones because I don't have any and I like to pretend I do, lol.

I've learned a lot here on BL about what should and shouldn't be used to contour and I have a much better understanding now. When I see a beauty "guru" use a completely orange bronzer to contour I just sigh a little and know not to do that.

I think a drier skin type can get away with going a little extra/heavy handed on the highlighter but that's just my opinion. I don't go too heavy with the highlighter, I just don't like the look of it on myself.

I do makeup tutorials and I don't claim to be a professional or a "guru" but I try to give as much information as I can about why I'm using a certain product and how I'm using it. I've also corrected myself on things I've said in past videos and I think people appreciate that.

Jun 26, 2016

Jamie D.

I think I agree with the basic sentiment of everyone else commenting here. While it's everyone's prerogative to do their "contour" however they want, orange lines on your face isn't really enhancing anyone's bone structure. Same thing for the crazy disco ball highlight.

I very rarely contour, but I do highlight on a regular basis. Typically I'll just do my cheekbones and not bother with the nose or chin or anywhere else because that gets a bit greasy looking on my oily skin and I have some texture that I don't really want to enhance. There are definitely days when I veer into disco territory, but it comes more from a love of shimmer than it does from a practical motivation of enhancing my cheekbones. I think I'm pretty lucky and have decent cheekbones already!

Truthfully, I don't know how anyone has any time for the Instagram highlight and contour look. I do my makeup in the car in 15 minutes; there's no way I can do a full glam 4 layer contoured drag look in a moving vehicle, although props to those who can! 😂

Jun 26, 2016

Jamie D.

P.s. Jackie thanks for that face shape link! I've hesitantly called my face heart shaped for a while now, but it's good to finally have measured and have a solid answer! I am a heart shape by the way, it's because I'm so full of love (toward makeup). :) ❤️💋

Jun 26, 2016

Ellen C.

I'm definitely no expert but what annoys me is when people highlight so much that is just makes their face look oily. But then some people look so amazing with highlighter and don't overdo it. I love a soft blended contour though and I think it definitely makes my face look more structured etc, on the rare occasions that I would contour.💜

Jun 26, 2016

Diana T.

Thanks again everyone for your input on this thread - I really appreciate all the comments - and I agree who the heck has time to do an Instagram style contoured look!? I guess if that was your livelihood and you made money off your photos then I understand but for every day it just seems like way too much.