Professional Foundation Palettes?

Jul 27, 2016

Jacqueline H.

Well, there are a few different ways that you could go. In my opinion, the most important thing to consider is versatility. You want a foundation that can work on as many skin types as possible without having to switch the foundation. There are very few single palettes that are going to cover every skin undertone and every skin type. How comfortable are you with basic color theory?

Jul 27, 2016

Jacqueline H.

In my opinion, the best foundations to use that will cover most every skin type and tone are Cinema Secrets and RCMA. These foundations work on Normal, Dry, Combination Dry, Combination Oily, and can be made to work on straight oily.

Both RCMA and CS foundations are heavily pigmented... a little gores a very long way. You would think that foundations with this kind of pigment to filler ratio would look and feel very heavy on the skin. They don't. They are the most realistic looking foundations on the skin in this particular group. On a very oily skin type, I do not care for the RCMA, I much prefer the CS foundation, but RCMA can be reasonably powdered down without taking too much away from the finish. I also suggest if you don't already have it, the RCMA No Color powder. This powder (within reason) can be used on every skin type. The reason it can work if used in moderation on a dry skin type has nothing to do with its ingredients. It is the super fine mill of the powder... nothing more. Even on dry skin, this powder just melds with the skin instead of just sitting on top of the skin's surface like most every other powder on the market does these days.

The RCMA foundations are a bit stiff out of the tin and need to be warmed up a bit before application whereas the Cinema Secrets foundations can go from tin to skin. I warm the RCMA up either on the back of my hand(my favorite way to do it because your body heat will soften up the binders so when it's time to apply, you are dealing with straight pigment), on my palette, or on a sheet of wax paper.

Both of these foundations are grouped by surface tone, undertone and depth. For example, RCMA goes by series numbers:

F Series: The lightest shades in the series... (F1-4)
F1: Pink undertone
F2: Olive
F3: Deeper version of F1
F4: Deeper version of F2

There are also 2 specialty colors: Porcelain and Ivory. Both very pale shades. Porcelain=Pale Yellow
Ivory=Pale Pink

KA Series

Best for Fair to Light Skin depth with neutral undertones.

Olive Series

I would liken this series to a warm sort of olive. It has a pinky peach kind of undertone to it which will give a bit more warmth to a neutral beige skin tone.

Gena Beige
OL1
OL2
OL3
OL4
Tantone

KO Series

Probably the most popular and functional in the range because it suits a plethora of undertones in the neutral to warm range.

K1-K8. Last 4 shades for men.

KT Series
I call these the tan tones. They are best suited to medium, tan and deep skin tones. They look very pink, but they actually do a really good job in terms of not making individuals look ashy.

KT1-3, Pale Yellow Tan, KT34 (Mix of KT3 and 4),

Shinto Series

Very popular rage. Most anyone with a strong yellow undertone can wear this series. In this series, as the shades deepen, you will get more of a green cast to them. I wear SH2 and sometimes SH3 in the summer.

SH1-8, with the last 4 shades geared to men.

These are the most used ranges within the RCMA lineup. There are a few more ranges, but I don't want you to fall asleep on me. ;) I just wanted to give you an idea as to how RCMA ranges are grouped. Most every RCMA shade (s) can be purchased as singles or in 5 part palettes. They also offer larger, sample sized palettes; VK 10 and VK 11. Both of these palettes have a good mix of the RCMA series in each palette. More on that later.


Cinema Secrets

These foundations are grouped in 5 part palettes or singles from Kit 1 to 11.

Kits 1 and 2 are corrector palettes. Kits 1 and 2 can be used as neutralizes and as adjusters to foundations.

Kit 3: Yellow and Olive Undertones at 5 depth levels
Kit 4: Light pink and yellow undertones
Kit 5: Neutral to warm undertones
Kit 7: Light pinky beige undertones

See where I'm going with these?

Okay, all that being said, and in my opinion, here's what I would do. If you want to go the RCMA route, I suggest getting the RCMA VK 11 palette, also known as the Shinto palette. In this palette you get 18 shades: SH1, SH2, SH3, SH4, SH5, SH6
SH7, SH8, Porcelain, Ivory, Gena Beige, Tantone. Olive1, Olive2, Olive3, Olive4, S-1, CS-2.

It is very rare that I cannot accurately match an undertone with this palette, and I cannot remember the last time I used the VK 10 palette. What I also love about both of these foundations is that they can be used just as straight concealers as well, and that will save you loads of money. RCMA can be thinned out by either cutting it with a bit of Embryolisse Lait Cremem Concentre, RCMA's Liquid thinner and/or the clear RCMA. If you want to keep the opacity consistent, use the clear RCMA foundation. It's is the same formula as the foundation minus the pigment... You can also use it to turn cream blushes in to lipsticks, as a brow pomade and a lip balm. Very useful to have in your arsenal.

I also suggest RCMA's foundation adjuster palette. You can use this palette to adjust any silicone, oil or wax based foundations.

If you want to go the Cinema Secrets Route, I would recommend purchasing palettes #1, #3, #5, #7, and #10.

Loads of pro artists also love Graftobian's HD Glamour Cream foundations, but they look a hot mess on any kind of oily skin (IMO). Sometimes we get caught up in only what works for us as individuals, and not provide a larger picture of what's available. I also love Face Atelier's Ultra Foundation(another one that is a gorgeous foundation but on oily skin...not so much) but who wants to lug around 6 bottles of foundation plus Zero Minus, Zero Plus and Heat to adjust? Not me. I think you'll be very happy with either RCMA or Cinema Secrets foundations in your kit.

Good Luck!  ;)

Jul 29, 2016

Tina K.

I'm not a pro, but I've one of the little RCMA palettes (5 colors I think. it's late, lol) and depending on the season I sometimes have to mix two colors and haven't had any problems.